Tues June 30 — We got up a little bit late and relaxed over cups of coffee (me) and tea (Lin). After that, we started on boat chores. I finished the washdown pump installation (the wiring) and tested it out. It is stronger than the old pump. Next, we took all of our anchor chain (all 225 ft. of it) off the boat and treated with Ospho, a compound that is supposed to remove rust and replace it with a phosphate compound that is rust resistant. The chemical reaction was rather impressive. When we put the chain back on the boat, we reversed the chain so that the end that always stayed in the anchor locker was attached to the anchor. Lin also did some cooking and baking and I replaced the fuel filters on one of our engines (will do the other engine tomorrow). When we were coming up the river, yesterday one of the engines temporarily lost power, three times. I’m hoping that the problem was a clogged fuel filter. We’ve decided to extend our stay here by one day. We’ll leave here, anchor out on the ICW one night and then go to the Charlestown City Marina for the nights of the 3rd and the 4th, in hopes of seeing a really good fireworks display.
Mon June 29 — We arrived at the Port Royal Landing Marina (Port Royal, SC) late Monday morning. It was an unpleasant journey but we are now well above Brunswick Georgia. The insurance company would be pleased to know we made it before July 1! The staff were very helpful and friendly and we were soon fueled up and secure on a T-head. Port Royal has serious currents as the water rushes in and out of the inlet through the bridge abutments next to the marina. In the afternoon Lin washed down the boat which was covered with salt and Bruce worked on replacing the deck washdown waterpump. In the evening, we walked to the marina bar/grill for burgers and a couple of drinks. While there, we talked to liveaboards who we met when we were here three years ago. Back on the boat, we went to bed early and slept very well.
Sun June 28 — We woke up fairly early in the morning and prepared to leave the marina. We had to go through the Bridge of Lions which has been under construction for the last 4 years. It’s cost DOT a fortune as the bridge has been torn down and now is being refurbished. The DOT also built a second bridge and has torn it down at this point. The bridge is on the national register of historical sights. They did not change any of the dimensions (it’s the narrowest bridge on the E. Coast). As we were finishing preparations, one of the dock hands came by to help with our lines. The dock hands at the St. Augustine City Marina are GREAT! We went out through the 9:00 AM bridge opening and proceeded out the inlet. We soon discovered why St. Augustine is not considered to be a Class A inlet as we saw breakers along a line of channel markers. The channel had silted in to the point where markers designed to show the location of the safe channel were outside the safe channel. At first, we made excellent time and considered Charleston rather than Port Royal Sound, but we suddenly slowed down (probably ran into an eddy of the Gulf Stream) and reconsidered Port Royal (a shorter trip). We had been told that significant squalls and thunderstorms were not predicted for Sunday or Monday, but then we heard the Coast Guard warning people about a line of severe thunderstorms with rain, hail, high seas and 40 kt winds and urging boaters to find a safe place to go to. Unfortunately, at the time, we were 20+ miles offshore in a boat doing 6 kts. We watched the storms on radar and managed to avoid most of them. However, we were glad that we had dropped our sails when winds got to the mid 30s during the squalls that did hit us. We had gotten forecasts of winds in the 15 to 20 kt range from the west or southwest. What we got were winds of up to 35 kts from the north (on our nose). Well, at least we did get some good practice in raising, lowering and reefing our sails. The seas were kicked up and we pounded and were hit by waves. At 10 PM the winds were 20-35 again. It was an unpleasant journey but we are now well above Brunswick Georgia. The insurance company would be pleased to know we made it before July 1! We arrived at the Port Royal Landing Marina (Port Royal, SC) in the late morning of Monday. The staff were very helpful and friendly and we were soon fueled up and secure on a T-head. Port Royal has serious currents as the water rushes in and out of the inlet through the bridge abutments next to the marina. Lin washed down the boat which was covered with salt and Bruce worked on replacing the deck washdown waterpump.
Sat June 27 — We both enjoyed a restful night’s sleep. In the morning, I spoke with Chris Parker of the Caribbean Weather Center. The forecast for our passage to Beaufort, SC sounds as if the trip should be reasonable if we leave tomorrow morning. Bruce checked with four different sources and all agreed. We hired a taxi and went shopping, West Marine, a supermarket and a liquor store. The taxi driver is a live-aboard who delivers boats and drives a taxi between boat deliveries. In the evening we walked to St. George’s St. (a tourist area) where we did a little shopping and enjoyed a memorable dinner at an excellent Cuban restaurant (Columbia Restaurant). Bruce had a tender steak and Lin had shrimp wrapped in bacon and deep fat fried. The soups and Cuban bread were excellent too! We waddled back to the boat and did a few more things to get the boat ready for sea. Lin worked on our ship’s log.
Fri June 26 — We woke up earlier than usual in order to get through a bridge that doesn’t open from 7:45 AM to 8:45 AM. As we started down the ICW, we heard one of the boats that we had spoken with the day before calling TowBoatUS. They woke up to find that the wind had shifted and they were stuck on the bottom. We called them and relayed our sympathy (there was nothing else that we could do, particularly since two other boats traveling with them were unable to help). The day was uneventful as we made our way along the ICW. We arrived in St. Augustine around 2:00 PM and tied up to the fuel dock to fill our fuel tank. Because we have to stay in a fairly narrow channel, we’ve been motoring for the past four days. Most of the area we passed through looked like a very wide river or bay, but outside of the ICW channel the water was often only one foot deep. Going from the fuel dock to our slip, there was a four kt current and a 15 kt cross wind. There were also barges involved with work on the Bridge of Lions that had to be maneuvered around. St. Augustine has a very historic bridge, the Bridge of Lions. When the bridge became unsafe, they built a temporary bridge, demolished the old Bridge of Lions, built a new Bridge of Lions and are now tearing down the temporary bridge. I guess that it makes sense to them. With attachment to a dock came water and electricity. We turned on the air conditioning, filled our water tank and Lin cleaned off the boat. After dinner, Lin did a load of laundry. In the evening, we played some games, read and checked emails.
Thurs June 25 — We got up fairly early and started our treck along the ICW. Absolutely nothing interesting to report. We did pass three other sailboats, and watched them arrive after we had anchored off of Daytona. There are a lot of comments and jokes about French cruisers because they tend to anchor much closer than Americans are comfortable with. Wouldn’t you know it. The first foreign flagged vessel that we’ve seen was a French boat that came too close to us and ran aground. The couple worked very hard to get off of the bottom and we worried about swinging into them if the wind changed. Just as we were getting very close, they got off and re-anchored. The couple worked very hard and we learned a number of things watching their efforts. We tried to be helpful, but could not bridge the language barrier.
Wed June 24 — Up around 7:00 AM and underway by 8:30 AM. Spent a quiet, uneventful day motoring along the ICW. While underway, we saw several river dolphin and Lin baked a turkey. We arrived in Titusville around 2:00 PM and decided to anchor there for the night. We would not have gotten to the next attractive-sounding anchorage until around 4:30 PM. The sky has ominous clouds and sprinkles on us occasionally. Severe thunderstorms are the name of the weather game in FL these days!
Tues June 23 — In the morning, Bob came to the boat to say good bye. He and Nancy have really made us feel welcome during our stay in Ft. Pierce. After clearing out with the marina office, Bob tossed our lines to us and we were on our way. When we were a couple of miles down the ICW, he took pictures of Alize passing. After an uneventful day of motoring, we anchored off of the city of Melbourne. We chose a spot to anchor which should have been protected from the prevailing winds. Shortly after that, the winds came around about 180 degrees and picked up to a gusty 20 kts. with rain. Fortunately, our anchor didn’t drag and after watching things closely for a while, we went to bed. We were very glad that the intense heat of the past many days has subsided somewhat and that we are fairly comfortable without airconditioning.
Mon June 22 — Nancy came home from the hospital! We spent most of the day running errands and getting ready for travel. Both of the ICW guidebooks arrived. We finished provisioning, including a trip to an excellent produce market… Nelson’s… which is near Bob’s house. We drove from Nelson’s to the Coutant’s where we swam and ate dinner before Bob drove us back to the boat. We did some last minute things in preparation for leaving Tues. AM. There was a very strong thunder and lightning storm during the night.
Sun June 21 — This was a day of more errands and boat chores. In the evening, we went to Bob and Nancy’s to visit and socialize. Bob was kind enough to drive us around and we accomplished many things. Nancy was still in the hospital, so we visited her. We ate dinner at a beach bar/restaurant in Jensen Beach. The food was good and Lin especially enjoyed the margaritas. Yum yum.
Sat June 20 — We attended a Saturday morning flea market at the park next to the marina. We walked through the food booths and bought a couple of things and then went across the street to an area where crafts items are sold. After wandering around in the heat, we went back to the food area for some frozen shrimp and then back to the boat. In the afternoon, we went to Bob and Nancy’s house where we socialized and swam for a bit. In the evening, we enjoyed a delicious meal of steak and king crab legs. YUM! We stopped at the park by the marina to see a patriotic light show with music. Back on the boat, I went to sleep and Lin (who had taken an afternoon nap) stayed and watched a movie. This is really a tough life.
Fri June 19 — In the morning, Janee from the local Coast Guard Auxiliary Unit, and a friend of Bob and Nancy, came to the boat and did a safety inspection. We passed and got our 2009 decal. While Janee was on Alize, Bob came to the boat. Afterward Bob drove us all over Ft. Pierce while we ran errands. Of the two computers we left for repair, one was fixed, the other was junked. The Skipper Bob books we ordered have not come in yet, so we will be in Ft. Pierce through Monday, at least. After lunch/dinner we visited Bob’s wife, Nancy, in the hospital. She is looking MUCH better. Back on the boat, we stowed our provisions.
Thurs June 18 — Plans for the day changed when Nancy went into the hospital during the early morning with a re-occurrence of a medical problem that has been bothering her. We did boat chores for a while before going to Bob’s where we tried to be helpful and ended up spending some time swimming. In the afternoon, we stopped by the hospital to see Nancy, but she was asleep. Afterward, we did some more shopping and took Bob out for supper. We are doing a lot of shopping right now, because we are back to a place where things are available and much less expensive. While on Highbourne Cay, I bought a small box of cereal (unavailable on nearby islands) for $8.45. On Nassau, the same box of cereal cost $5.14 and in Ft. Pierce $3.35. I find this an interesting comparison.
Wed June 17 — In the morning, Lin’s cousin, Bob came to the boat and took us to run a few errands and then to his home. When we got to his house, his wife, Nancy (who worked during the morning) was there and we enjoyed socializing and catching up on each other’s lives. We met their pets Chrissy (short for Christmas; black and chocolate lab mix) and Kara (black lab.) Kara is an avid swimmer and rests on top of Bob on a pool float. Chrissy is afraid of the water but Bob is being patient and hopefully will succeed in getting her to swim! The Coutants loaned us their camper and we went back to Alize in the afternoon. In the evening, we drove to their church for a delicious ham dinner, prepared by Nancy. After dinner, our phone rang, it was a call from our friend, Pete of Peekaboo, welcoming us back to the states. It was really nice hearing from him. Afterward, we went back to the boat and got to bed early.
Tues June 16 — We slept a little during the night. It was very calm and peaceful, but a few times we encountered other ships that seemed to be behaving strangely. For a while, our speed was very slow (5.4 kts at one point). When we hit the gulf stream our speed got up to 9.5 knots, with almost no wind. Lin saw a green turtle as we approached the coastline. There was a big fire in Port St. Lucie. We could see some serious smoke! We arrived at Ft. Pierce around noon. We first tried to go into the wrong marina, but got that sorted out and went into the Ft. Pierce City Marina. This is a much nicer (and less expensive) marina. After putting things away and calling Lin’s cousin Bob, we relaxed for a while and went to bed early.
Mon June 15 — We got up fairly early and were underway by about 8:30 AM. The winds were light and the seas quite calm. We had the sails up, but most of the trip we were essentially motoring. It was funny to go from extremely deep water (1,000 ft. deep +) to 10 – 20 ft. water as we crossed the Bahamas Bank, to extremely deep water again. The bank is amazing! You could clearly see all the way to the bottom which was sandy, or green, or stony at times.
Sun June 14 — We got up fairly early in the morning and motor sailed to Chubb Cay, arriving mid afternoon. We had planned to stay in the marina, but when we learned that it would cost almost $200, we opted to anchor outside of the marina. Good decision, the anchorage was beautiful with clear, light blue, water. We spent a quiet afternoon on the boat and went to bed early.
Sat June 13 — In the morning, we and Martin and Vicky from Arto took a taxi to the Atlantis Resort on Paradise Island. We and Vicky toured the resort’s aquarium while Martin checked out the Casino. The aquarium is quite nice and we really enjoyed ourselves. After lunch in an open air café surrounded by a pond with a large variety of fish, we took a taxi back to the marina.
Fri June 12 — We cleared out of the marina and got underway for Nassau around 9:00 AM. During the first half of our journey, there were a lot of very dark clouds around us and a great deal of lightning. Later, it cleared up and we arrived in Nassau around 1:30 PM. After docking the boat, we put things away and I did a little shopping in the shopping mall across the street from the Marina. In the evening, we went to Psyche (who were in the same marina) for drinks and snacks with Debbie and Eric and Martin and Vicky from Arto.
Thurs June 11 — We got up fairly early in the morning and finished preparations for the day’s passage. Arto left the anchorage around 7:30 AM, we got underway around 9:00 AM. There was little wind during the day, and what little there was came directly over our nose. We arrived at Highborne Cay at the same time as Arto and went to the fuel dock to top off our tank. Afterward, we went to our slip. Lin tidied the boat up and did two loads of laundry while I checked into the marina, planned our routes for the next few days and made reservations at Nassau and Chubb Cay. The weather forecasts that I downloaded indicated that there may be quite a few squalls going through the area during the weekend, If that happens, we will wait in Nassau for a while before going to Chubb Cay. In the late afternoon, we walked to Stromatolite beach with Arto and introduced them to Stromatolites. Back at the marina, we watched nurse sharks for a while (counted 11 of them, all quite large). While we were talking with them, our friends Erik and Evelyn from Everick stopped by, We haven’t seen them for four years, but heard them on the VHF and talked with them earlier in the day. It was really nice catching up on things with them. If circumstances allow, we will take them up on their offer and visit them in Key Largo sometime in the future. Back on the boat, we read for a while before going to bed.
Wed June 10 — It was a beautiful day in the Land Sea Park. We went exploring in the dinghy for several hours. Unfortunately, the tide was just starting to fall and the current was quite strong, so we couldn’t snorkel some of the better snorkeling spots. We finally went back to a reef that didn’t have any current and snorkeled for a while. After sitting on a swim platform for a while, we went back to the boat. Lin fixed an excellent shrimp dinner and afterward, Arto came for a visit.
Tues June 9 — The morning was a bit overcast, but we raised anchor and got under way around 10:00 AM for the Exuma Land Sea Park. There was very little wind and what there was came from directly astern. It took us three hours to motor the 17 miles to the park. Once there, we took a mooring and then dinghied to the park office to sign in and pay the mooring fee. Afterward, we went snorkeling on a small reef, and really enjoyed the colorful reef fish. In the evening, Martin and Vickie came to the boat and we talked and ate some of the birthday cake that Lin had baked.
Mon June 8 — In the morning, we listened to weather forecasts and got a leisurely start. Our original plan to go to the Exuma Land Sea Park today were changed. Martin on Arto has a birthday in a couple of days and he wanted to go somewhere that had a bar to celebrate, so we changed our destination to Staniel Cay. We anchored off Big Majors (an island) when we couldn’t get into the Staniel Cay Yacht Club and couldn’t get a mooring. The distance to the yacht club restaurant was too far to dinghy in, so it appeared that our plans to go out to dinner to celebrate Martin’s birthday (Arto) would have to be cancelled. However, Martin managed to find someone who would pick us up from our boats and take us to the restaurant and return us to our boats later. We enjoyed a very good dinner. While we were eating, it started to rain heavily and we got pretty wet on the ride back to our boats.
Sun June 7 — We got up around 6:30 AM and were under way by 7:30 AM. Two other boats left the anchorage around the same time as us, Arto and Cloud Messenger. We traveled slowly while in the harbor because of the need to watch out for reefs. After two days of waiting in the harbor to avoid predicted squalls, we were hit by a long line of squalls shortly after we got out of the harbor. Winds were up in the thirties at times, visibility very limited due heavy rain and there was a lot of lightening. Cloud Messenger turned back after they lost there electronics, apparently due to a lightening strike. After a while, things settled down and we made very good time. After coming through a wide cut from the Atlantic to the Bahamas Bank, we anchored off Black Point Settlement around 3:00 PM. Arto arrived in the anchorage about an hour after we did. We tidied the boat up, put things away and spent a quiet evening on the boat before going to bed.
Sat June 6 — In the morning, I did a couple of chores on the boat and then went ashore to do some shopping. In the early afternoon, we took Alize to the local fuel dock, and after anchoring out and waiting while another boat finished fueling, we topped off the tank and then went back and anchored again. Lin spent the afternoon cooking food in anticipation of several days of sailing. In the afternoon, we finished getting Alize ready for an ocean passage and in the evening we went to bed early.
Fri June 5 — In the morning, we went to town to do some shopping. Guess what? It was another holiday, and everything was closed. After walking around for a bit, we went back to the boat and Lin did a load of laundry. In the afternoon, we went in to St. Francis and played Sequence with Martin and Vicky from Arto. When we got back to the boat, four dolphins were playing in the waters around Alize. It is really great when something like this happens. In the evening we read and watched a movie before going to bed.
Thurs June 4 — Using a relay, I got a weather report this morning from Chris Parker, Caribbean Weather Center. It is supposed to be squally today, with even more squalls Saturday and Sunday. The morning has been overcast and rainy, but with no significant rain squalls. We don’t want to be caught out when there are 30 to 50 kt squalls around and will probably stay here for a couple more days.
Wed June 3 — A bright, sunny day. We plan on going to the market for some fresh produce either this afternoon or tomorrow. One of the two weekly supply boats came in today and we want to wait until supplies are unloaded and put on the supermarket shelves. In the afternoon, Martin and Vicky from Arto came to Alize and we played Sequence. Afterward, Lin made a meat pie that we enjoyed for dinner and we read for a while.
Tues June 2 — In the morning, I took care of a couple of minor boat repairs, end-for-ending one of our reefing lines and removing a lazy jack (helps keep the jib from flopping all over the deck when the sail is lowered) that had gotten caught on a spreader. Afterward, I and Martin from Arto went in and cleared in with Customs and Immigration. Afterward, I made a few purchases before going back to the boat, and getting soaked in the process. Next, we went to the St. Francis resort to have lunch and buy internet access cards. We met friends there and spent the afternoon socializing. In the afternoon, we saw a couple of rain spouts coming down the harbor toward us, but both dissipated before they got to us. In the evening, we watched a movie and read before going to bed.
Mon June 1 — We awoke after a sticky night and little wind, but many mosquitoes. We’re don’t know how so many of them got into the cabin. During the night, the wind shifted from easterly to almost due south and the boat followed the wind around, leading to some fear that we might have dragged. When we got in yesterday evening, Debbie of Psyche called us to let us know that Monday (today) is a holiday, Whit Monday (occurs 40 days after Easter) and everything is closed. I went in to town to check in, or at least be able to say that I had tried to, and everything is indeed closed. All of our errands are put off for a day. We spent a quiet afternoon and evening on the boat and watched a movie before going to bed.